Tropical aglaonema on your windowsill
Aglaonema is one of those tropical plants that humans have successfully "domesticated". Now it grows on windowsills no worse than at home. For experienced flower growers and beginners in this business, the plant is extremely popular due to the unpretentiousness and decorativeness of the leaves. And the variety of existing varieties allows you to create a whole collection. However, for a full-fledged growing of a flower at home, you should provide it with the necessary care.
What is aglaonema
The closest relatives of aglaonema are anthuriums, spathiphyllums and dieffenbachia
Aglaonema is an evergreen herb from the Aroid family, or Aronnikovs (Araceae). It is quite problematic to accurately count the representatives of the species. In different sources, you can find references to 20-50 varieties, not counting the hybrids bred by breeding. This is due to the fact that the varieties differ significantly in appearance and characteristics, and some scientists single out some of them into separate subspecies or even species.
Aglaonema grows naturally in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia (Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos). It is also common on the islands - the Philippines, Indonesia, Kalimantan, New Guinea, Borneo, Sumatra, the Malay Archipelago.
The plant's name is a combination of two Greek words. Aglala means shine or shine and nema means stamen. The species owes its name to the famous Austrian botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott, whose subject of study was the entire Aroid family.
Heinrich Wilhelm Schott - the scientist to whom Aglaonema owes its name, and Europe owes its acquaintance with the plant
Florists appreciate this plant for the appearance of its leaves. Indeed, in aglaonema they are very beautiful - harsh, thick, glossy-shiny, oval or lanceolate, they amaze with a variety of colors. The leaves are literally covered with patterns of white, yellowish, silvery, reddish and light green spots.
Another characteristic feature is the strongly pronounced central vein in comparison with the rest. Because of this, the leaves of some varieties are slightly concave, forming a calyx. The color of the vein in most cases does not coincide with the main color of the leaf plate. Dark scarlet, pink and almost black veins look most beautiful.
The leaves are arranged on rather long petioles. At the very base of the sheet plate there is a thickening on the lower side, which plays the role of a kind of stiffening rib. The longer it is, the more the leaves are lifted up. If the thickening is short, they are almost perpendicular to the stem.
The stem of the aglaonema consists almost entirely of internodes. Therefore, the plant strongly resembles a bush. At first, the stem is almost invisible, and only after 3-5 years of growth, when the lower leaves fall off, it becomes noticeable that it is still there. The older the aglaonema becomes, the more it resembles a miniature palm tree with a bare stem and a cap of leaves at the top. The average plant height is 50-60 cm. Some varieties can grow up to 80 cm.
The plant blooms frequently, even in captivity. Inflorescences are formed in the axils of 2-3 upper leaves. But flowers are far from being its main advantage. They are rather inconspicuous - white or pale yellow, collected in an inflorescence, called the cob by botanists. It is wrapped in a white or pale green blanket.
Florists value flowers for another reason - small red (less often orange or white) fruits ripen from them, resembling dogwood berries. From there, it is easy to extract seeds (there is only one seed in each fruit), which, if planted immediately, have a 90–95% germination rate. These berries ripen for at least six months. At home, the term can increase to 8-10 months.
Aglaonema fruits are usually ruby-colored
When caring for the plant, do not neglect rubber gloves. If you have sensitive skin, it is quite possible to earn redness, peeling, itching and even burns when poisonous juice, which contains oxalic acid and some specific enzymes and proteins, in an increased concentration. If it gets into the eyes, mouth, or on other mucous membranes, there is swelling and a feeling of cramps. Therefore, remove the plant where small children cannot reach it. It may well occur to them to feast on beautiful berries.
There is a benefit from aglaonema. In the phase of active growth, plants secrete aeroions, which contribute to an increase in those who live in the room, stress resistance, performance and the acquisition of peace of mind.
The most common varieties
According to the appearance of an adult plant, aglaonema varieties are conventionally divided into three groups.
Low-growing aglaonema (up to 20-25 cm) with a creeping stem:
- Ribbed (Costatum). The smallest of all (15–20 cm). The trunk is underground and branches intensively. The leaves are dark green, heart-shaped, forming a dense “cap”. The central vein and pattern of spots are white or pale green. The ear is almost higher than the plant itself, and it is in the bud phase for about a month, and fades in a couple of days. At home, the fruits never ripen.
- Rounded (Rotundum). Unlike most other varieties, it is quite demanding to care for, but this is more than compensated for by the appearance of the leaves in the shape of a heart. They are dark red, almost black, with a pattern of very thin stripes of deep pink color.
- Short-covering (Brevispathum). The stem is completely hidden underground. Only narrow and long leaves of bright green color rise above the soil, sharply sharpening to the tip. The central vein is white.
Low-growing aglaonema in the photo
Medium height (40-50 cm) with an erect stem:
- Changeable (Commutatum). The trunk branches from about a third of the height. The leaves are long (up to 30 cm) and narrow, the spots on the outer side of the leaf plate are silvery-gray. The fruits are yellow at first, turn red as they ripen.
- Modest or moderate (Modestum). The trunk branches out. Leaves are oval, sharply tapering towards the top. There is no pattern on the plate.
- Painted (Pictum). Height is about 55–65 cm. Strong branching of the trunk from the very roots is characteristic. The leaves are elongated (with a length of 18–20 cm, the width is only 5 cm), with randomly located gray or silvery-white spots.
- Treiba (Treubii). It is very unpretentious, even in comparison with the rest of the aglaonema. Leaves are medium in size (12–15 cm long), with silvery and light green spots on a darker background.
- Maria (Compact Maria). Of all varieties, it is most demanding on the presence of shade. It can only grow under artificial lighting. But it's better not to set up such experiments on plants.
- Silver Queen. The hybrid was bred artificially. Almost the entire leaf plate is covered with a symmetrical pattern of silvery and gray-bluish spots. With a lack of lighting, the color becomes indistinct gray.
- Crete (Crete). Breeding hybrid. The main tone of the leaf plate is bright green, the spots are dark red, the veins are pinkish. Petioles are white or pale green. Several leaves on a plant may be completely scarlet. Requires good lighting, otherwise the color will fade.
- Snow Cap. The stem is very thin (no more than 2 cm in diameter), the leaves are narrow and long, bright green in color, along the edge there is a thin white border. Grayish stripes radiate from the central vein. Spots of the same color can be located between the lateral veins.
Photo gallery of medium-sized representatives of the species
Tall with large leaves:
- Shiny (Nitidum). Plant height - up to 1 m. Leaves 40–45 cm long and 18–22 cm wide. The ear is formed from only 3–5 flowers. The fruits are white.
- Curly (Сrispum). Leaves are bright green, 35 cm long and 15-18 cm wide, with a wide white stripe, lighter than the basic tone of the leaf blade. The cobs are very small (up to 3 cm) and are always completely hidden by the bedspread.
- Silver Bay. The height of an adult plant is about 120 cm. The trunk constantly branches intensively from the root itself, it is almost invisible due to the often located leaves. The main distinguishing feature is cold resistance. The leaves are long and narrow, the young are the lightest. In the center of each leaf there is a large gray irregular spot, which occupies about a third of the entire area of the leaf plate. Closer to the edges of the leaves - spots of the same color, but smaller. Below, the leaves are monochromatic, olive green.
Photo gallery of tall varieties
Most suitable growing conditions
When thinking about what conditions are best for Aglaonema, you need to remember that its homeland is rainforests. And since the plant is rather low, it practically does not receive light - the crowns of the trees intertwine, forming a continuous “roof”.
Optimal conditions for growing aglaonema at home - table
|Lighting||Aglaonema categorically does not tolerate direct sunlight. Burns appear on the leaves very quickly in the form of dry spots. In the most beautiful ornamental varieties, the bright color fades. But even without the sun, the leaves become shallow and pale. Therefore, the lighting needs diffused (or even partial shade). During the day, the plant needs light for 12-15 hours. If you are unable to provide natural light, use ultraviolet lamps. With a lack of light, the growth of aglaonema is sharply inhibited, the leaves become smaller, turn yellow, the internodes are ugly stretched. Aglaonema can be safely left under the rays of the winter sun - it will not harm her.|
|Location||When choosing a place, be guided by the following rule - the darker the leaves of the aglaonema, the more shade-tolerant this plant is. And vice versa. Best suited for him is the sill of a window facing southwest, southeast, a place next to an indoor fountain or an aquarium. Also, the flower reacts very badly to tobacco smoke.|
|Temperature||In the phase of active growth, the optimum temperature for aglaonema is +22 ... + 26 ºС, during the rest period +15 ... + 18 ºС. A drop in temperature to +10 ... + 12 ºС will not survive the flower. But if the air humidity and watering are sufficient, it feels good even at +30 ... + 35 ºС. At any time, sudden changes in temperature and strong cold drafts are detrimental to the plant. Hot dry air, the source of which is the radiators, is no less harmful.|
|Air humidity||Air humidity should be high, at the level of 90–95%. It is almost impossible to create such a microclimate in an apartment, so spray the leaves of aglaonema from a spray bottle every day. In late autumn and winter, spraying is carried out at intervals of 3-4 days. You can also put wet moss, pebbles, peat or expanded clay in the pan of the pot, purchase an air humidifier or put a container with water next to it. A good effect is given by placing the aglaonema in a group of other indoor plants, which, as it were, share moisture with it. The only thing you should not do is pour water directly into the pan of the aglaonema pot. The roots will rot very quickly. In winter, humidity can be reduced to 75–80%.|
Planting and transplanting
The transplanted stalk of aglaonema looks like this
Too frequent transplantation of Aglaonema is not needed. Only young plants grow rapidly. After 1.5-2 years, growth slows down sharply. Accordingly, the flower needs to be transplanted only once every 3-5 years, when its roots are almost completely entwined with a clod of earth in a pot. The optimal time for transplanting is from mid-February to the end of March. At the same time, you can divide the overgrown aglaonema into several smaller plants.
Before starting transplanting, take care of a suitable soil and pot. The soil for aglaonema should be light and loose. Aeration of the roots is very important for this plant.
You can buy substrate for orchids, azaleas, violets, or foliage crops from your specialist supply store. But experienced gardeners prefer to prepare the soil on their own. To do this, mix in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1 sod or leafy soil, humus, peat and perlite. If your garden soil is acidic, add a glass of sifted wood ash for every 2 liters of soil. Another option is garden soil, coarse river sand, peat, humus and crushed charcoal in a ratio of 3: 1: 1: 0.5: 0.5.
Before use, the soil must be sterilized. It can be spilled with boiling water, steamed, placed in a refrigerator or oven for 25-30 minutes. It will take just a couple of minutes to be sterilized in a microwave oven.
Since the root system of the aglaonema is fibrous and superficial, there is no point in taking a very deep pot. In this case, the roots will braid a clod of earth for too long, which will slow down the growth of the flower and make it almost impossible to bloom.
But a pot that is too shallow, more like a bowl, will not work. Focus on the fact that at least a quarter of the volume will be taken up by drainage. At the bottom, you can pour expanded clay, brick chips, pebbles, small ceramic shards, charcoal and so on. An additional plus of the pot will be a large hole at the bottom.
- The aglaonema, which needs to be transplanted, is carefully removed from the pot, the roots are washed and with a sharpened knife they cut off those on which traces of rot and mold are noticeable. The sections are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.
- A layer of soil 2-3 cm thick is poured onto the drainage, the plant is placed, the roots are straightened and the soil is poured in small portions, not reaching 1-1.5 cm to the upper edge of the pot.
- The soil is lightly tamped, the flower is watered abundantly and removed to a warm place for 7-10 days.
Aglaonema can also be grown hydroponically if desired.
Aglaonema transplant - video
Aglaonema is just a florist's dream, she is quite unpretentious. All plant care is watering, fertilizing and sanitary pruning.
Since Aglaonema is a tropical plant, it is extremely fond of moisture. But it is strongly discouraged to fill it. Otherwise, the roots will rot very quickly and the flower will die. For the same reason, water should not be allowed to stagnate in the sump. The aglaonema also does not like drought, but it tolerates it more easily than the soil turned into a swamp.
During the growing season, aglaonema should be watered abundantly, but every 3-4 days, allowing the top layer of soil in the pot to dry completely. In winter, you can limit yourself to spraying the soil every 5-7 days.
For irrigation use only water at room temperature, settling for at least 12-15 hours.
Of course, watering needs to be adjusted based on the length of daylight hours, air temperature and indoor humidity. It is also useful to spray the leaves of the plant daily and shower it at least twice a month.
Aglaonema categorically does not tolerate slaked lime and dolomite flour, therefore, only wood ash can be used to deoxidize the soil.
In the phase of active growth (from mid-March to the end of August), the plant needs complex fertilizers containing potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and other trace elements. Use the following fertilizers for decorative foliage crops - Agricola, Effecton, Fantasy, Lignohumate. The frequency of feeding is once every 12-14 days. The best time for her is a cloudy day one day after watering.
Starting in September, feeding is reduced to once every 20–25 days. In winter, they stop completely. Overfeeding aglaonema is undesirable. An excess of trace elements in this case is a much more serious problem than a lack of them.
If your priority is not the ripening of the seeds, but the decorative qualities of the leaves, immediately cut off the buds that appear.The more flowers bloom, the smaller the leaves become.
As the aglaonema gets older, the lower leaves fall off, exposing the trunk. It doesn't look so pretty anymore. Therefore, the top from the place where the leaves begin should be cut off and transplanted when it gives roots. The "stump" remaining in the old pot does not need to be thrown away. Wait 4–6 weeks for the growth buds to “wake up” on it.
To emphasize the beauty of the leaves of aglaonema, they should be regularly wiped with a damp sponge, washing off the dust. But special formulations based on wax, which give the leaves a glossy shine, cannot be used.
Features of plant care and maintenance - video
Frequently asked Questions
Aglaonema is quite unpretentious in care, but from time to time there are minor troubles that negatively affect its decorative effect. More often than not, it’s because you’re doing something wrong.
The most common aglaonema problems are table
|The leaves turn yellow.||Excessive watering or too low room temperature.|
|Some areas of the leaves are discolored.||Aglaonema is exposed to direct sunlight. Stains are nothing more than burns. The plant needs to be removed from the windowsill for a while and sprayed daily.|
|Withering petioles and leaves literally sinking to the ground under their own weight.||The plant is too cold. Or it is standing in a place where there are cold drafts.|
|Leaves lose color, turn pale.||Aglaonema lacks lighting or nutrients, especially nitrogen and phosphorus.|
|The tips of the leaves dry out.||The plant lacks moisture. This applies to both watering and air humidity.|
|The leaves are covered with brown spots, the flower practically does not grow.||You water the aglaonema with too cold water. Or the water is hard, with a high content of chlorine and fluorine. To neutralize, add 0.2 g of citric acid per 10 liters to it and let stand for 8-10 hours.|
|Sticky drops on the leaves.||This is completely normal if droplets are not accompanied by sticky marks, brown growths on the stem and cobwebs on the leaves. Thus, the plant removes excess moisture. Reduce watering slightly.|
|Leaves fall.||If it happens in the fall, it's okay. Aglaonema needs a rest period. At other times, a possible reason is a lack of nutrients or unsuitable, too heavy soil.|
Diseases and pests
The most common pests that aglaonema suffers from are spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies and thrips. Therefore, it is necessary to regularly examine the plants for the presence of characteristic damage and know the means that will help to cope with the problem. Over-watering can also develop rot.
Aglaonema pests and diseases - table
|The source of the problem||Symptoms||Preventive measures and methods of control|
|Mealybug||Pests settle in whole colonies on the underside of the leaves and suck the juice out of them. From above, it looks like small beige dots. You can also notice on the stems, leaves and in their axils, pellets, made as if from dirty cotton wool.||For prevention, wipe the leaves of aglaonema with a damp sponge at least 2 times a month. If the pest is noticed in a timely manner, it is enough to wipe the plant with a thick soapy foam, and then, at intervals of 7-10 days, spray it with a solution of green potassium soap (10 g of shavings per liter of water). In severe cases, use insecticides Aktellik, Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Fozalon, Nurell-D, Karbofos. Before use, be sure to carefully read the instructions. The leaves are sprayed with a solution weekly until the pest is completely destroyed. Chemistry can be replaced with folk remedies - infusion of garlic arrows, onion peels, peels of any citrus fruits. 50–70 g of crushed raw materials are poured with a liter of boiling water, tightly closed with a lid and removed for 2-3 days in a warm, dark place. The ready-to-use infusion is filtered. Leaves and stems are wiped every 3-4 days with a cotton pad or a piece of bandage dipped in the infusion.|
|Spider mite||The pest sucks the juice from the leaves, at the same time braiding the plant with thin threads resembling a spider web. Small whitish dots are visible on the underside of the leaf plate.||The mite does not tolerate high humidity, so regular spraying of aglaonema is an excellent prevention. If you notice a problem in the early stages, water the plant abundantly and put a plastic bag on top, sealing it on the pot. You can shoot in 2-3 days. Destroy the proliferated ticks by spraying the flower, the pot, the tray under it and the window sill with Karbofos, Inta-Vir, Zolon, Fitoverm, Aktara, as well as by any means containing the oil of the Neem tree. You can add Temik or Aldicarb granules to the soil. Folk remedies - infusion of onions, garlic, dandelion roots. A tablespoon of raw materials is poured with a liter of water and insisted for 10-12 hours, then filtered. In order to finally defeat the pest, it is recommended that at least 4-5 treatments (preferably with different means) with an interval of about a week.|
|Aphid||Pests cover the underside of the leaves with an almost continuous carpet, feeding on their sap. Leaves curl, dry and fall off. Aphids are highly visible, so it is not difficult to diagnose the problem.||For prophylaxis, periodically give the plants a warm shower. When transplanting, be sure to disinfect the soil. When there are a lot of aphids, spray aglaonema with solutions of Aktara, Actellik, Engio, Confidora-Extra, Lannata, Zolona. Folk remedies - infusions of any strong-smelling plants. Use wormwood, garlic, onions, tansy, tomato tops, marigolds, pine needles, hot peppers, tobacco, celandine, any citrus peel, fresh or dried. Aphids do not like pungent odors very much. Processing is carried out every 5-7 days, changing funds.|
|Whitefly||The small insects that live under the leaves are easy to spot if you just shake the flower. They will immediately rise into the air. Also on the leaves, especially those located below, a shiny sticky coating is noticeable.||A good prophylaxis is sticky tape for catching flies. To cope with the problem, spray aglaonema according to the scheme: with an interval of 7-10 days with Verticillin and Pegasus (no more than two treatments), Actellik (up to 4 treatments in 4-6 days), Confidor, Mospilan, Fufanon (one procedure). There are also folk remedies - infusion of yarrow or garlic (3 tablespoons of raw materials per liter of boiling water, ready in a day). Filter the infusion before use.|
|Thrips||The pest feeds on cell sap - discolored dry spots and stripes appear on the leaf plates. Then the leaves deform, curl and fall off.||For prevention, it is recommended to periodically wash the aglaonema under the shower or completely immerse it in water along with the pot. Adhesive tape for catching flies gives a good effect. If a pest is found, the affected plant must be immediately isolated and the place where it stood should be disinfected. Then the top layer of soil (3-5 cm) is removed, the flower is thoroughly wiped with soapy foam. After 3-5 hours, it is sprayed with a solution of Fitoverm, Vertimek, Agravertin, Aktellik, Inta-Vir. Then they put a plastic bag on top, seal it tightly and remove it after a day. If the pest has not yet spread en masse, folk remedies can help. Prepare an infusion of yarrow, celandine, tobacco or hot pepper and spray the flower.|
|Rot fungus||On the leaf petioles and stem at the roots, gray or brownish spots appear that are soft to the touch and spread quickly.||Spray the plant with any fungicide. The most commonly used drug is Topaz or a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (10 ml per liter of water). If the plant is severely infested, remove it from the pot, cut off all affected roots and leaves with a sharp knife and repot. When this is not possible, choose the healthiest cutting, dip in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate for 15–20 minutes, sprinkle all the cuts with crushed activated charcoal and plant the aglaonema in a new pot.|
Harmful insects and signs of rot in the photo
Aglaonema is propagated in the same way as most indoor plants - by seeds, cuttings, or by dividing rhizomes. The best time for this is early spring or summer.
For an aglaonema stalk to give roots, it is enough to dip it into plain water.
A distinctive feature of the plant is easy and fast rooting of cuttings. In this capacity, you can use not only shoots, but also sections of the trunk. A prerequisite is the presence of a growth point. With at least one leaf, the chance of rooting is almost 100%. The length of the cutting can be minimal - 3-5 cm.
- Sections of cuttings are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon and dried within 24 hours.
- In order for the stalk to give roots, it is immersed in water with a growth stimulator (Epin, Zircon), a mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions, sphagnum moss or perlite, covered with plastic wrap or glass to create a greenhouse effect.
- The cuttings are placed in a warm (25-28 ° C) place and provide them with sufficient (12-15 hours a day) lighting.
- The roots appear on the 25-30th day, that is, after a month, the plant can already be transplanted into a pot.
If you want to get several aglaonems from one cutting at once, make it longer (up to 10 cm), cut it along with a sharp knife and lay it flat on the ground with a notch down. Each point of growth must give roots.
Aglaonema grown from cuttings fully inherit the varietal characteristics of the parent and do not need acclimatization.
Aglaonema seeds ripen in fruits. They can only be collected when they are separated from the plant at the slightest touch. If the fruit needs to be pulled, the seeds are not yet ripe.
The collected seeds must be planted in the substrate immediately, only by rinsing in warm water. The longer you wait, the fewer seeds will sprout. The most suitable soil is a mixture of peat and coarse river sand in equal proportions or sphagnum moss. It is poured into wide flat boxes, which, after sowing the seeds, are covered with polyethylene or glass. Seeds are buried shallowly - a maximum of 1.5 cm. Once every 2-3 days, the soil is sprayed.
When 2 real leaves appear, the seedlings can be planted in individual pots. Under optimal conditions, the process will take about 3 months.
Aglaonema grown in this way grow much more slowly than those obtained from cuttings. And the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, most likely, will not be preserved. This is especially true for highly decorative hybrids bred by breeding.
Division of rhizomes
Thus, a highly overgrown plant is divided into several smaller bushes, which look neater.
- Aglaonema is removed from the pot, after spilling the soil well.
- Then the roots are washed under the shower or with a stream of water and cut with a sharp knife, disassembled into separate rhizomes.
- Places of cuts should be sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.
- Plants are immediately planted in a well-moistened soil and left for 7-10 days in a warm place with an air humidity of 90-95%.
- As soon as the first new leaf appears on the bush, rooting has been successful, you can rearrange the pot to a permanent place.
I really like aglaonems for their unpretentiousness and variety of colors. For about two years I tried to root several different varieties. Unfortunately, they didn't want to grow. I fed, sprayed, tried to find the most suitable place. It was all useless. I decided to take care of the root system. For six months she watered with Ribav and Zircon (for the formation of a root system). The result was not long in coming.
A very interesting plant. The color of the leaf is variegated and resembles a dieffenbachia leaf. The main difference between aglaonema is that it does not have a trunk as such, but in shape it looks more like a bush. It blooms in the spring. The flower resembles a spathiphyllum flower, only of a smaller size. There are many types. Recently, a new appendage appeared, and his son accidentally broke it. We put him in a separate pot. Honestly, I didn’t think that he would take root, I just didn’t scold the child, he was already upset. And our process took and took root! It turns out that aglaonema multiplies very easily, you don't have to wait for the cutting to take root.
Aglaonem I have recently. I wanted this particular flower, since my rooms face the north side, and I needed a plant that was unpretentious to light. All somehow I did not come across a beautiful copy. Once I went into the store and saw silver aglaonema. I liked it so much, and I bought it. At home she transplanted into a tall pot. I must say, it looks gorgeous. The silvery shade on the leaves gives the plant an unusual appearance. I have it for one month and during this time she opened four leaves. I water as the earth dries up. Stands half a meter from the window (north side). I hope it will continue to please me.
Growing an exotic aglaonema on your windowsill is easy. Follow the recommendations for care, and the plant will regularly delight you with its appearance and flowering.
The Sanchezia shrub is a member of the Acanthus family. Indoors, it is grown as an ornamental deciduous plant. In this perennial, the most attention to themselves is attracted by the juicy leaf plates of an emerald color, which are decorated with spectacular lemon stripes. If you do not trim the top, then even in room conditions, the height of the bush can reach more than 100 centimeters.
Sanchezia is fast growing. About seven young leaf plates are formed annually on tetrahedral stems. Flowering is observed in the summer, subject to high humidity and high air temperatures. Elongated tubular flowers are part of the spike-shaped inflorescences. In nature, this shrub can be found in the tropical part of Colombia, Ecuador, Peru. At the same time, this plant comes from Brazil. It was from there that the Sanchezia was brought to Europe in the 18th century.
Aglaonema Treiba flower photo
The beauty of painted leaves will impress even the most sophisticated grower. They are engaged in growing a flower in greenhouses, aglaonema grows well at home. The rich greenery and splendor of the bush can be a decoration for any room.
Tropics on the windowsill
A piece of paradise in any territory, even in a small kitchen, you can create it yourself. This does not require significant effort. One has only to visit the store and bring from there a few pots of cacti, geraniums, azaleas ... However, living beauty requires that you take care of it. Indoor plants - native to tropical and subtropical countries - have a luxurious look only in their native climate. Therefore, you need to take care of similar conditions in city apartments, offices, and other premises.
Begonia (Begonia). © robin.elaine
In halls, halls and rooms with windows to the south, east or west, almost all newcomers from distant lands feel comfortable and make a wonderful impression. Especially effective in bright light codiaums, dracaena, akalifs, cordilins... The brightness of the colors of the leaves depends on whether they are sufficiently illuminated. These plants can even withstand many hours of sun exposure. But for most exotic species, indirect (diffuse) light is still ideal. And it is not desirable for them to "fry" in the sun, as they may burn themselves. Better to shade them for this time.
But in the "northern" rooms you can put pots with shade-tolerant ferns, aspidistras, aglaonems, spathiphyllums, phytonia, chamedorea... There are even plants (members of the aroid family) that can adapt to a windowless environment and withstand artificial lighting. However, under such conditions, the mentioned representatives of the flora, as well as dracaena, ficus, sanseviera, fatsia practically do not bloom. And the leaves grow smaller and not as bright as in natural conditions.
In addition, small and young plants react more sharply to lack of light than large, strong specimens. But today there are lamps to help solve this problem. If the rays fall on the plant from one side, it needs to be turned around a little every day. Almost all exotic aliens withstand this procedure well. Unless some (gardenia, zygocactus) buds may crumble. As for the palm trees, their young leaves should "look" into the room.
Too generous for watering, the owners of the home tropics do the wrong thing, since most often green pets die from excess moisture. The soil is saturated with moisture, there is little air, toxic substances accumulate, the roots gradually rot and die off. but conifers, cisuses, azaleas, camellias do not withstand drying out of the soil and die.
Plants with delicate, delicate (maidenhair, coleus, balsam, fittonia, calathea) and leathery (gardenia, coffee tree) leaves if the soil in the flowerpot has dried out at least once. But they like the mixture in the container to dry out between waterings, peperonia, columnea, saintpaulia, ficus, begonias and other inhabitants of the tropics and subtropics. A separate conversation about cacti and other succulents (aloe, milkweed). They can be drunk every 10-15 days. Especially in winter, when they are "sleeping".
The general rules for watering are as follows. This should be done in the morning. When buds appear on the stems, the plant needs to be watered more frequently. Chlorinated water needs to be settled for 10-12 hours. The acidified liquid feeds azaleas, gardenias, camellias, and some conifers. The temperature of the water for irrigation should be several degrees higher than the air in the room. By the way, it speeds up flowering. hydrangea, pelargonium, gloxinia, hypeastrum.
Codiaeum. © robin.elaine
Dry indoor air can withstand cacti, kalanchoe, agave... They are used to this at home. Yes and ficuses, codiaums, shefflers, other people from the subtropical regions of the globe are not too sensitive to the level of air humidity. And for flower growers who dream of growing orchids, ferns, philodendrons, bromeliads and some other types of exotic plants, it is worth putting the pots with them in large containers and filling the gaps between the walls with peat, moss, expanded clay. Such material, subject to good moisture, will evaporate water and create a favorable atmosphere for exotics with spectacular flowers and leaves.
Live plants in flowerpots are sensitive to temperature changes. Therefore, lovers of green unique people need to remember about two critical periods of the year: the middle of summer and the beginning of winter. Plants suffer from overheating on hot days. In addition, pests (spider mites, aphids) often develop in such conditions. There is also such a rule: so that the flower does not stretch upward, losing strength and beauty, it needs a lot of light in the warm season. Without this, the shoots will be weak, and the leaves will be pale. In winter, greens that touch the cold window glass can freeze and die. In addition, the roots also suffer from hypothermia: at low temperatures, various types of phytopathogenic fungi and microorganisms actively develop.
Bromelia (Bromelia). © kimubert
The real revolution for the "green friend" is the potting. Plastic, which replaced the traditional ceramic, have, despite numerous advantages, a significant flaw - the plant organism in such a container does not "breathe" well. The best time to move most tropical and subtropical exotic plants from one container to another is spring, when new shoots and roots begin to form.
However, some species (begonias, dracaena, Kalanchoe) can be transplanted almost all year round. Earthen mixtures in which indoor flowers grow are prepared from humus, turf, peat soil and sand. Azaleas, rhododendrons, gardenias and camellias develop well if, in addition to deciduous soil, pine needles and peat are poured into a pot.
Ficus rubber and Nolina. © noricum
There are several secrets to correctly replanting delicate greenery. Two hours before the "operation", the plant is watered abundantly so that the earthen lump, braided with roots, can be easily removed from the pot. The soil in the new container should be moist and not cold. If the exotic freezes and its rhizome is supercooled, it will die. Experienced flower growers know that the "new settler" in another container is watered abundantly, even if the water flows into the sump. Instead of transplanting large palms or ficuses growing in tubs, wooden boxes, and other large containers, they are poured with fresh earthen mixture, removing a layer of old two or three centimeters thick.
Reproduction of aglaonema
The easiest and most effective way to reproduce is by dividing an adult bush. In the spring, when transplanting, the bush is divided and planted. You can also propagate the flower by rooting root suckers, cuttings and seeds. When grafting, the cut cutting is dried for 24 hours, having previously processed the slices with charcoal. Rooted in water or in a greenhouse using a mixture of sand and peat. Rooting time is 1 month.
The offspring that grow at the base of the mother plant are also used for reproduction. The young offspring are carefully separated from the mother and set aside. Seed propagation is extremely rare. The seeds quickly lose their germination, therefore, for a positive result, the seeds must be sown without hesitation after the fruits are ripe.
Planting and leaving
The planting pot must be chosen not high, but wide enough. Aglaonema is a slow-growing species, so it is often unnecessary to replant it. This should be done at the moment when the old leaves dry up and new ones actively appear. Transplant very carefully, as damage to the roots or trunk can lead to the early death of the plant.
The ideal place for the plant is the eastern window, where direct sunlight does not fall on it (this recommendation is general, since there are certain varieties that like direct light).
A suitable temperature is in the range from 18 to 25 ° C. The plant must avoid sudden temperature changes and hypothermia (with the exception of resistant varieties that can tolerate any conditions), the minimum allowable temperature is 16 ° C.
- Water for irrigation should be soft.
- Watering should be 2-3 times a week (except for those varieties that like abundant moisture), after the topsoil dries.
- In winter, it should be watered a few days after the topsoil dries.
- Air humidity is very important, therefore, aglaonema must be periodically sprayed from a spray bottle.
- This plant needs to be washed under a cool shower.
The soil should be light to allow moisture and air to pass through. To prepare a suitable substrate yourself, you need to mix leafy soil with sand and peat in a 3: 1: 1 ratio. You can add some charcoal to them.
It is worth feeding the plant with mineral fertilizers containing trace elements. Fertilize after watering, in shade conditions, as due to fertilizers combined with light, burns may appear on the leaves.
Watering in winter is done with warm, settled water, abundantly. Drain excess water. If the plant is on the windowsill, then it may strongly dislike the dried out warm air. To avoid this, it is necessary to put pallets with wet expanded clay. The plant should be bathed less frequently in winter than in summer.
When the trunk of the aglaonema is bare, it should be cut off. The upper part is removed, the cut is treated with charcoal and dried well. The cut part is placed in a glass of water to form roots. The water must be boiled and disinfected. The stalk can be planted in the soil right away, but then you need to create a kind of greenhouse for it.
Florist's ABC: Choosing Plants for a Vertical Garden
If you perceive the need to care for plants as a torture, but at the same time you definitely want to have living greens at home, you have two ways out. Choose something unpretentious for breeding (that is, unkillable). Or order phytowalls that will "grow by themselves." This "grow yourself" is the main mistake of most users. They believe that if huge squares are adorned with walls made of living plants (flowers grow in offices and halls of restaurants), then they do not cause inconvenience to their owners at all.
In fact, of course, this is not the case. Vertical floriculture is a special science, no less complicated than the traditional cultivation of indoor plants. And the difficulties here begin already at the stage of choosing a flower. Which plant on the phytowall does not get along with, in which soil to plant, how exactly to care? It is important for you to know about all the nuances before you decide to arrange a vertical garden at home with your own hands.
In the classical sense, a vertical garden is considered, where all plants are planted in a single structure. And already it is mounted on the wall surface. It occupies a relatively large part of the area (that's why they speak of a "garden", and not of a flower arrangement). In this case, we are talking about a combination of different plants within one vertical garden in an apartment.
The phyto-designer starts creating a picture of fresh flowers with a visual sketch. And already on it he selects plants in size, texture and color.
The container with plants will be located in a certain place in your room, and, therefore, this place will have a certain lighting, humidity, air temperature, as well as the frequency of watering and water quality.
In other words, there is no way to indulge a vertical garden plant at home with the luxury of personalized care. Therefore, it is extremely important to select plants in one design that are similar in terms of care and maintenance. Accordingly, depending on the expected conditions - humidity, temperature and lighting in the room (where your vertical garden in the apartment will grow) - phyto-constructions are selected. They are different and must take into account the indoor climate.
Typology of vertical gardens
There are two types of vertical gardening - hydroponic-based and ground-based.
- If you have chosen the type of gardening on the ground, then it is much easier to pick up plants here, since they will be in their usual soil and, accordingly, receive the necessary nutrients through it.
- If the choice fell on hydroponics, the vertical garden in the apartment will have to be limited to a list of the most unpretentious plants. With this type of planting, the root system of plants is completely cleared of ordinary soil and placed in a prepared substrate. As a rule, the most common substrate for vertical gardening of premises is expanded clay and sphagnum moss. Moss retains moisture well, expanded clay provides oxygen access, and plants receive nutrition through more frequent watering.
Given these features, experts distinguish three types of plants in vertical gardening: those that fit perfectly, plants that work well for vertical gardening, and plants that can be used.
Type 1. Fit perfectly
Plants that are ideal for vertical gardening have a 90% survival rate; this category includes scindapsus, aglaonema, monstera.
It is a climbing liana, climbing up with the help of aerial roots, it has about 25 species. In indoor conditions it grows quite quickly.
- Temperature: moderate, 15-18 ° C, in winter not lower than 12 ° C.
- Lighting: bright light without direct sunlight.
- Air humidity: requires frequent spraying of leaves, only soft water should be used for spraying.